All About Sunscreens PLUS 13 Sunscreens for Dark Skin
Black Women often complain that sunscreen leaves a gray to whitish cast on the skin. That might have been a valid complaint and a reason to skip sunscreen 15 years ago. In today's beauty world, that excuse is entirely invalid. Especially when you have a brand like Black Girl Sunscreen — a company whose very name takes all the guesswork out of choosing a sunscreen for dark skin.
ABOUT PHYSICAL UV BLOCKERS
Most of the formulas on the market were for physical blockers when we were first introduced to sunscreens. Sunscreens with physical blockers are often referred to as "mineral sunscreen." They contain Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide as their active ingredients. They are often recommended for children and adults with super sensitive skin. Both those ingredients are white powders that can be hard to blend out once in skincare products. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the only two sunscreen ingredients that the FDA generally regard as safe and effective (GRASE.)
Over the years, formulas containing physical blockers have gotten more elegant. Many brands now use micronized Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in their formulas. This dramatically reduces the grey or white cast left behind by these types of sunscreens. For those with deeper skin tones, even a micronized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide formula may not be enough to render the sunscreen transparent upon application.
ABOUT CHEMICAL UV FILTERS
Today, several sunscreen formulas don't contain either Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Instead, those formulations contain a mix of chemical ingredients or UV Filters. While physical blockers create a shield on the skin to block and absorb the sun's UVA and UVB rays, chemical sunscreens absorb the sun's rays and dissipate them. These sunscreens need to be applied 15-30 minutes before sun exposure to "activate." They are also generally reapplied every two hours while exposed to the sun. The FDA has a list of chemical ingredients that are approved for use in sunscreen products. It also includes the percentage of each ingredient that can make up the final product. Ingredients include ensulizole, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, Avobenzone, Cinoxate, dioxybenzone, meradimate, padimate O, sulisobenzone. There is evidence that UV filters are absorbed in the body though it is not yet clear how these ingredients affect us. The FDA has a proposal out for more research on these ingredients.
There are also hybrid sunscreen formulas that contain micronized physical blockers, along with some chemical ingredients. The smaller the particles of the Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, the more sheer the formula. That combination of micronized particles from physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreen ingredients can be the basis for a sunscreen product for dark, sensitive skin.
ABOUT UVA AND UVB RAYS
You might be wondering, why do sunscreens use a combination of sunscreen ingredients? Well, that's a good question. Not all sunscreen ingredients protect from both UVA and UVB rays. According to Cancer.org:
UVA rays have the least energy among UV rays. These rays can cause skin cells to age and can cause some indirect damage to cells’ DNA. UVA rays are mainly linked to long-term skin damage such as wrinkles, but they are also thought to play a role in some skin cancers.
UVB rays have slightly more energy than UVA rays. They can damage the DNA in skin cells directly, and are the main rays that cause sunburns. They are also thought to cause most skin cancers.
To help us remember which is which, we often refer to UVA as the aging rays, and UVB as the burning rays. Approximately 95% of the UV rays that reach the earth’s surface are UVA rays, with the other 5% being UVB Rays. UV Rays are present rain or shine, snow or sleet. Sunscreens that provide protection from both UVA and UVB rays, (all wavelengths) are referred to as broad-spectrum.
The FDA is still working on a proposal to make it mandatory for approved sunscreens with SPF 15 or greater to be broad-spectrum. While not yet mandatory, many brands market their products as being broad spectrum. Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are stable (don’t break down in UV light) and provide broad-spectrum protection on their own, though both may be too white/chalky for use on dark skin. Avobenzone filters UVA rays but is highly unstable and breaks down easily when exposed to light. It is the most used UVA filter in the world. Research shows that when stabilized and paired with Zinc Oxide it provides better protection than when it’s paired with Titanium Dioxide. Homosalate, Octisalate, Octinoxate, all filter UVB rays and are also unstable. They are often combined with ingredients to help stabilize them as well as Avobenzone in order to provide broad-spectrum UV protection. The instability and degradation rate of the UV filter is why it’s necessary to reapply sunscreens as directed.
ABOUT SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (SPF) RATINGS
Regardless of the sunscreen formulation, each sunscreen has a Sun Protection Factor, SPF. According to the FDA, SPF measures how much UV radiation it takes to burn protected skin, relative to the amount of UV radiation required to burn on unprotected skin. Also, “because SPF values are determined from a test that measures protection against sunburn caused by UVB radiation, SPF values only indicate a sunscreen's UVB protection.” In short, SPF tells you how long you could potentially stay in the sun without getting a sunburn. Note here there is nothing mentioned about UVA protection.
You've probably seen SPF, 15, 30, 50, 100, and so on. It's easy to think that SPF 30 provides twice as much coverage for twice as long or that SPF 100 will wrap you in a cloak of invincibility and perpetual youth. That is not the case. SPF 15 will prevent about 94% of the sun's harmful rays from hitting your skin, and will only do so for about 2 hours. SPF 30 will block or filter approximately 97% of the sun's harmful rays from getting to the skin but will do so for the same amount of time as SPF 15. SPF 100 protects you from approximately 98-99% of the rays but also for only about 2 hours. So, the SPF rating is not an indication of how long you will be protected, but rather an indication of how much of the sun's harmful UV rays will get to the skin. It is, therefore, essential to follow packaging usage amount and reapplication directions. If you've been burned after using sunscreen, chances are you didn't use enough, OR you didn't reapply in time.
Talk to any dermatologist, and they'll tell you that sun damage is the leading cause of premature aging (i.e., wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots) and skin cancer. According to Cancer.org, "Most skin cancer cases and deaths are caused by exposure to UV radiation, and thus potentially preventable." In addition to wearing a sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, we can seek shelter from the sun (especially during the hours of 10 am and 2 pm) and wear protective clothing and hats.
ABOUT SUNSCREEN FOR DARK SKIN
Many people with dark skin mistakenly think they are not at risk for Melanoma (skin cancer.) According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC), "Although black men and women in the United States are at lower risk of melanoma than white men and women, they often have melanoma diagnosed at a later stage and have poorer survival as a result." The bottom line, our melanin provides some level of protection, but it is not enough. We need to supplement that with a topical broad-spectrum sunscreen for dark skin to further reduce the risk of Melanoma and ensure that our 'Black don't crack,' sag or wrinkle prematurely. It is also essential to pay close attention to any moles and dark spots on the skin. Watch for changes in shape, size, and color and talk to your dermatologist immediately if you notice anything.
Dark skin burns slower BUT we are still hit with those UVA (aging) rays that can shoot past all that melanin and get to work breaking down the collagen and elastin in our skin. Do you know what that leads to? Sagging, drooping, loss of firmness, and more. If you are looking for another reason to wear sunscreen on your dark skin, this is it!
We understand that if you don't like your sunscreen, you won't wear it, so we're making it easy for you with a list of sunscreens for dark skin.
Black Girl Sunscreen for Dark Skin
SUNSCREENS FOR DARK SKIN
Black Girl Sunscreen uses the chemical compounds Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, and Octocrylene to absorb and dissipate the energy from UVA and UVB rays. Also, it contains botanical ingredients to help nourish the skin. It is suited for all skin tones. May work best for normal to combination/oily skin. ($15.99)
Bolden Brightening Moisturizer with SPF 30 — In addition to providing broad-spectrum UV protection, this moisturizer contains skin-brightening vitamin C to help even skin tone. It contains Octisalate, Homosalate, Avobenzone, and Octocrylene. It works on all skin tones and types. ($28.00)
Eucerin Daily Protection SPF 30 Face Lotion - a lightweight fragrance-free formula that protects against UVA/UVB rays. It contains a mix of chemical filters (ensulizole, octisalate and, octinoxate) and physical blockers (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.) It is recommended for sensitive skin. Works great on all skin types. Suitable for light to medium-dark skin tones. ($25.99)
Dermalogica Solar Defense Boost can be used alone or added to your favorite moisturizer or foundation to provide SPF protection. It uses chemical sunscreen ingredients Avobenzone and Octinoxate. It is suitable for all skin tones and types. ($55.00)
Specific Beauty Daily Hydrating Lotion SPF 30 - is a daily oil-free antioxidant-rich moisturizing SPF that provides broad-spectrum coverage. Emblica fruit extract, licorice, and niacinamide work together to help prevent hyperpigmentation and balance the skin. It uses Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Octocrylene Oxybenzone. It is suitable for all skin tones and types. ($34.00)
Laroche Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral — 100% mineral sunscreen (Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) with antioxidants that provide a matte to a semi-matte finish. It's great on sensitive skin or to use after you've done a peel and have to be exposed to the sun. Works on light to dark skin tones. (For darker skin tones apply a little at a time and rub it in. - $33.50)
Neutrogena Clear Face Liquid Lotion Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 55 - is formulated to provide broad-spectrum sun protection for oily acne-prone skin. It is a lightweight lotion that sinks into skin, leaving a matte to a semi-matte finish. It uses Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone. It is suitable for all skin tones. It may be best for oily, acne-prone skin. ($9.99)
Dermalogica Oil Free Matte SPF 30 - is a creamy, lightweight formula that quickly absorbs into the skin leaving behind a matte finish. It also contains Caffeine, Niacinamide, Biotin, and Yeast extract to help regulate oil production and soothe inflammation. It uses Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone, so suitable for all skin tones. Works on all skin types but may be excellent for oily skin. ($54.00)
Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer SPF 15 Sensitive Skin - is a broad spectrum lightweight, oil, and fragrance-free daily moisturizer that contains vitamin E, Niacinimide, and aloe. It uses Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, and Octocrylene. Works on all skin tones and types. It may be well suited for oily, sensitive skin. ($8.99)
Murad Oil and Pore Control Mattifier Broad Spectrum SPF 45 | PA++++ - This sunscreen uses oil trapping microspheres that are said to deliver a smooth skin feel while reflecting light. Also, there are botanical extracts from avocado, and African yellow won bark that helps to trap excess oil. It uses Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, and Octocrylene, so it works great on all skin tones. May work well on oily skin with enlarged pores. ($42.00)
Mario Badescu Moisturizer with SPF 30 - contains green tea extract, a natural antioxidant, and aloe vera to hydrate and soothe skin and St John's Wort to help repair delicate skin. It is a lightweight lotion that provides superior moisture and protection to all skin types, but we like it for mature/dry skin. It uses Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate, and Octocrylene. Excellent on all skin tones. ($28.00)
Supergroup Superscreen Daily Moisturizer — The sunscreen for dark skin not only moisturizes and provides broad-spectrum UV protection, but it also uses Cerium, "a rare mineral element that reflects and shields from blue light." Blue light is emitted from phones, and computer screens and research shows that it can be harmful to the skin. It also contains Avobenzone, Homosalate, and Octisalate. Great on all skin types and tones. ($38.00)
Laroche Posay Anthelios Cooling Water Sunscreen Lotion SPF 60 — Feels water-light when applied to the skin. It's formulated with Cell-Ox Shield® technology to provide board spectrum protection. It's a chemical sunscreen that contains Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, and Oxybenzone. Works on all skin types and tones. ($35.99)